Dawn and I took the shuttle to the airport with our bags while Dad drove the car back (he was afraid he would get lost so he wanted us to go with the shuttle to avoid any delays). We checked in with Alitalia then met with Dad for a last coffee before he took the shuttle back into the city and then we headed through security. I ended up having to open my carry-on due to a question about.....my slippers. I think the guards gave the x-ray guy a hard time about that after we left. That then became a joke between Dawn & I for the rest of the trip (any time we had to go through security).
We got home safe and sound, tired but with some great memories.
Friday, March 6, 2009
Day 10 - April 2nd - back to Rome
Breakfast again at the hotel then it was off to Monte Cassino. It's amazing what they have done with the place after it was bombed by the Allies in WWII. It is beautiful and covered in gold. We stopped at the Polish Cemetery and the German one before heading towards Rome. We had lunch in Cassino at the Goa Pub/Pizzaria/Birreria/Paninoteca. Dad had the tourist menu lunch (2 courses plus a drink), Dawn had pizza margherita and I had the pizza quatro formaggio.
We arrived in Rome and headed to our hotel - the Four Points by Sheraton Roma West (http://www.starwoodhotels.com/fourpoints/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1388). I redeemed Starwood points for 1 free room night for myself & Dawn, and 2 nights for Dad. We had rooms 309 and 311. This is about 20 miles from the city as well as 20 miles from the airport. They have a free shuttle that will take you to both places (it drops you off/picks you up not too far from the Piazza Venezia in the city). My cousins from Argentina happened to be arriving that day from Paris so we headed into town to see them (I hadn't seen them since 2001). We took the shuttle in, a taxi then to the Harley Davidson store (for Dawn to buy the shirt for her husband), then onto the Hotel de la Naccione to see the Chaos and the Morinis. We all went out to see the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps (climbed to the top), then had dinner close to the Via Veneto at La Corte dei Leoni. There were an assortment of appetizers, then I had risotto con carciofi (risotto with artichokes) for my main course. We walked back to their hotel then the 3 of us took the 1020pm shuttle back to our hotel - Dawn and I needed to repack as we were leaving the next morning. This was the 1st day/night that the weather was not on our side - it rained on and off.
We arrived in Rome and headed to our hotel - the Four Points by Sheraton Roma West (http://www.starwoodhotels.com/fourpoints/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1388). I redeemed Starwood points for 1 free room night for myself & Dawn, and 2 nights for Dad. We had rooms 309 and 311. This is about 20 miles from the city as well as 20 miles from the airport. They have a free shuttle that will take you to both places (it drops you off/picks you up not too far from the Piazza Venezia in the city). My cousins from Argentina happened to be arriving that day from Paris so we headed into town to see them (I hadn't seen them since 2001). We took the shuttle in, a taxi then to the Harley Davidson store (for Dawn to buy the shirt for her husband), then onto the Hotel de la Naccione to see the Chaos and the Morinis. We all went out to see the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps (climbed to the top), then had dinner close to the Via Veneto at La Corte dei Leoni. There were an assortment of appetizers, then I had risotto con carciofi (risotto with artichokes) for my main course. We walked back to their hotel then the 3 of us took the 1020pm shuttle back to our hotel - Dawn and I needed to repack as we were leaving the next morning. This was the 1st day/night that the weather was not on our side - it rained on and off.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Day 9 - April 1st - Pompeii
We started out with nourishment at the hotel then it was off to Pompeii (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pompeii). What an amazing place to see. It blows the mind how the mosaics and paintings have survived. We got there shortly after it opened, so by 1pm we were ready to head out. Walking here is rough - the uneven cobblestoned streets really did a number on my knee. We drove back up the coast and stopped in Sorrento to take a quick trip to the Isle of Capri (not originally planned). We took the 245pm departure of the Linee Marittime Partenopee to Capri ($9.50 EUR per person/each way). The thought was to do the Blue Grotto but when we arrived and tried to purchase tickets we were told that there were no more excursions running that day as the tide was too high. We decided instead to rent a taxi for a tour of the island. It cost $60 EUR for all 3 of us and this included the tour plus time to shop (our driver was Vincenzo Verdoliva - driver #26).
We returned to Sorrento using the 620pm sailing then it was back to the hotel. There were 3 tour buses there when we arrived (Germans & Brits I think) so we were lucky we were able to find a parking spot. Dinner at the hotel restaurant again - I had crema di asparagi (cream of asparagus soup), scaloppine al marsala (veal escalopes in marsala sauce). Dad had a penne dish to start then the scaloppine al marsala and gelato. Dawn had the insalata verde (mixed salad) and pollo alla cacciatora (chicken). Dad & I finished off the meal with limoncello.
We returned to Sorrento using the 620pm sailing then it was back to the hotel. There were 3 tour buses there when we arrived (Germans & Brits I think) so we were lucky we were able to find a parking spot. Dinner at the hotel restaurant again - I had crema di asparagi (cream of asparagus soup), scaloppine al marsala (veal escalopes in marsala sauce). Dad had a penne dish to start then the scaloppine al marsala and gelato. Dawn had the insalata verde (mixed salad) and pollo alla cacciatora (chicken). Dad & I finished off the meal with limoncello.
Day 8 - March 31st - to the Amalfi Coast
Started out the day with "breakfast" at the hotel (it's in "" as we were able to chose from croissants and croissants - really no options). We left the car at the hotel, took a bus into Ercolano where our destination was Herculaneum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herculaneum). We purchased a multi-day/multi-place ticket as we were planning on visiting Pompeii as well (cost $18 EUR per person for 5 sites - Herculaneum, Pompeii, Boscoreale, Oplontis and Stabia). This was a very interesting place - it really is amazing what has been uncovered here. I had read that this place was a must see place - even better preserved than Pompeii (not sure if I agree with that). We opted not to hire a tour guide so Dawn & I went into the bookstore and purchased one of the Herculaneum/Pompeii books with the transparent overlays (shows before and after pictures). This helped us figure out what some of the locations were supposed to be.
We spent hours walking around, took another bus back to the hotel then continued driving south to the Sorrentine Peninsula. We had reservations at the Hotel Piccolo Paradiso in the fishing village of La Lobra (overlooking the bay of Massa Lubrense http://www.piccolo-paradiso.com/en/) . We found the hotel (quite by accident really) and checked in. We stayed in the section that used to be the Hotel Nereidi across the street from the main hotel in rooms 2 and 3. Dawn & I were in room 3 with the larger, wrap around balcony). WOW - the view! Beautiful!
We arrived right before 2pm and luckily the hotel restaurant was still serving lunch, as we were hungry. The main dish was Ravioli a la capresa - very good. It was back then to the balcony to decide what our next plan of action was to be. While we were very tempted to rest in our rooms overlooking the water, we headed off to see Positano and Amalfi. I had seen so many pictures of these places but pictures reall don't compare with the real thing. The drive along the coast had me white knuckled - Dad drove like a champ & Dawn and I were extremely grateful for him doing that. I really loved this area - I can definately see myself going back there.
Dinner was back at the hotel where Dawn had a reprisal of lunch while Dad & I had the pasta con funghi e pomodoro, pork chops & potatoes. We had some limoncello to end the meal then called it a night.
We spent hours walking around, took another bus back to the hotel then continued driving south to the Sorrentine Peninsula. We had reservations at the Hotel Piccolo Paradiso in the fishing village of La Lobra (overlooking the bay of Massa Lubrense http://www.piccolo-paradiso.com/en/) . We found the hotel (quite by accident really) and checked in. We stayed in the section that used to be the Hotel Nereidi across the street from the main hotel in rooms 2 and 3. Dawn & I were in room 3 with the larger, wrap around balcony). WOW - the view! Beautiful!
We arrived right before 2pm and luckily the hotel restaurant was still serving lunch, as we were hungry. The main dish was Ravioli a la capresa - very good. It was back then to the balcony to decide what our next plan of action was to be. While we were very tempted to rest in our rooms overlooking the water, we headed off to see Positano and Amalfi. I had seen so many pictures of these places but pictures reall don't compare with the real thing. The drive along the coast had me white knuckled - Dad drove like a champ & Dawn and I were extremely grateful for him doing that. I really loved this area - I can definately see myself going back there.
Dinner was back at the hotel where Dawn had a reprisal of lunch while Dad & I had the pasta con funghi e pomodoro, pork chops & potatoes. We had some limoncello to end the meal then called it a night.
Day 7 - March 30th
We ate breakfast at the hotel then it was off to Montalcino. This region is best known for their wine - Brunello di Montalcino (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brunello_di_Montalcino) one of Italy's most expensive wines. We arrived there early and found that there wasn't much going on - most stores were closed (not sure if it was because of the time or because it was Sunday) and there weren't many people either. We walked around the castle and window shopped in a few Enotecas (wine stores). On our way out we found a ceramic shop that happened to be open (and busy) where Dawn & I stopped and shopped :-)
We headed south, past Rome to the World War II sites of Anzio and Nettuno. We stopped at a turnpike rest area (AutoGrille) for lunch where Dad & I each had a spinach & ricotta panini and Dawn had pizza. This was surprisingly good for turnpike food.
We arrived in Anzio just before 4pm and went straight to the WWII Anzio Landing museum. It was closed until 430pm so we decided to go to the American Cemetery in Nettuno. This is where the Americans killed during the campaign from Sicily to Rome are buried. We got there in time to get in - the last entrance was at 430pm. This was a really overwhelming and touching place. We weren't there for anyone in particular - just to pay our respects. We spent time at the Landing museum, then continued south with the plan on staying in a hotel as close to Ercolano as possible. We finally found a hotel called the Villa Santa Teresa (http://www.villasantateresa.com/home_eng.htm) and checked in to rooms 10 & 19 (cost for the twin was $72 EUR, not sure about the single).
Dinner was down the street at the Ristorante e Pizzaria da Peppino where I tasted buffalo mozarella for the first time (this region of Italy is known for it). Yummy, especially when it was combined with prosciutto.
This area was not so nice at night - it was ok in the day light, but kind of creepy at night. This was the only night that we called home - first to my mom in Argentina and then my sister/nephew in the US. We found that the flight that Dawn and I had scheduled from Rome to JFK had been cancelled and that we were now flying from Rome to Venice, then to JFK then to Washington.
We headed south, past Rome to the World War II sites of Anzio and Nettuno. We stopped at a turnpike rest area (AutoGrille) for lunch where Dad & I each had a spinach & ricotta panini and Dawn had pizza. This was surprisingly good for turnpike food.
We arrived in Anzio just before 4pm and went straight to the WWII Anzio Landing museum. It was closed until 430pm so we decided to go to the American Cemetery in Nettuno. This is where the Americans killed during the campaign from Sicily to Rome are buried. We got there in time to get in - the last entrance was at 430pm. This was a really overwhelming and touching place. We weren't there for anyone in particular - just to pay our respects. We spent time at the Landing museum, then continued south with the plan on staying in a hotel as close to Ercolano as possible. We finally found a hotel called the Villa Santa Teresa (http://www.villasantateresa.com/home_eng.htm) and checked in to rooms 10 & 19 (cost for the twin was $72 EUR, not sure about the single).
Dinner was down the street at the Ristorante e Pizzaria da Peppino where I tasted buffalo mozarella for the first time (this region of Italy is known for it). Yummy, especially when it was combined with prosciutto.
This area was not so nice at night - it was ok in the day light, but kind of creepy at night. This was the only night that we called home - first to my mom in Argentina and then my sister/nephew in the US. We found that the flight that Dawn and I had scheduled from Rome to JFK had been cancelled and that we were now flying from Rome to Venice, then to JFK then to Washington.
Day 6 - March 29th - to Siena
We left Florence without breakfast at 8am and headed to Pisa. There Dawn & I had the required "cheesy tourist" pictures taken of us "holding up" the tower. Dad & I had decided that we were going to climb the tour (all 294 steps & me having had 2 knee surgeries) so we went to purchase our tickets. The cost was $15 EUR per person and you were put into groups & assigned a time to climb. Dawn chose not to go so she sat and relaxed on the steps of the Duomo while we hiked up the building (she did take a picture of us almost at the top). We made it up to the top - with me huffing, puffing and shaking (I'm scared of heights) but this was on my have to do list. My father had to take my camera from me as I was worried I'd either drop the camera or the pictures would be blurry, as I was shaking so badly. I was very happy to get back to the bottom & I was pooped! I sat on the steps of the Duomo while Dawn & Dad went inside.
We left Pisa with our next destination of San Gimignano (http://www.sangimignano.com/sghomei.htm) in mind. This city was another favorite - I loved this city. This is a city of towers - towers used to be built to show power and wealth (higher tower=more power/wealth). There used to be 54, now only 12 were intact. We had lunch upon arrival in the Piazza della Cisterna at the Torre Guelfa Cafe/Pizzaria. Pizza was had all around, followed by gelato at the Gelateria di Piazza. We walked off our lunch (and ice cream) and did some damage shopping before heading back to the car.
Siena was originally on our list of places to see but it was deleted and replaced with San G instead. We had extra time so we decided to head over to Siena anyways. The closest hotel we were able to find available was about 2km from the Porta Pispini (gateway into Siena) at the Palace Hotel Due Ponti (http://www.palacehoteldueponti.com/home_en.htm). It's a very modern building close to office buildings but it was clean. We got a twin room at $75 EUR including breakfast (don't remember Dad's rate). We dropped off our bags and it was back into the car to go into Siena.
We made a beeline to the Duomo - to see as much of it as we could before the sun went down. Gorgeous! We then walked over to the Il Campo - the central meeting area for the Sienese. This is where the Palio is held twice every year (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palio_di_Siena). Dawn & I sat down (like the locals) while Dad scouted out the restaurants for dinner. We went with a restaurant with outdoor seating (looking over Il Campo) - it was either the Ristorante Asperanza or the Ristorante Toscani. Dawn chose pizza while Dad & I chose the Il Tagliere de Salumi tosani (plate of Tuscan cold meats & salami) and Il carre di agnello in crosta di erbe e pecorino fresco (to share -- roasted loin of lamb with aromatic herbs and fresh pecorino cheese). YUMMY! We capped off dinner with an espresso and a plate of local sweets (we were expecting panforte http://www.whatscookingamerica.net/Cake/panforte.htm but it wasn't). A little bit more walking then it was back to the hotel.
We left Pisa with our next destination of San Gimignano (http://www.sangimignano.com/sghomei.htm) in mind. This city was another favorite - I loved this city. This is a city of towers - towers used to be built to show power and wealth (higher tower=more power/wealth). There used to be 54, now only 12 were intact. We had lunch upon arrival in the Piazza della Cisterna at the Torre Guelfa Cafe/Pizzaria. Pizza was had all around, followed by gelato at the Gelateria di Piazza. We walked off our lunch (and ice cream) and did some damage shopping before heading back to the car.
Siena was originally on our list of places to see but it was deleted and replaced with San G instead. We had extra time so we decided to head over to Siena anyways. The closest hotel we were able to find available was about 2km from the Porta Pispini (gateway into Siena) at the Palace Hotel Due Ponti (http://www.palacehoteldueponti.com/home_en.htm). It's a very modern building close to office buildings but it was clean. We got a twin room at $75 EUR including breakfast (don't remember Dad's rate). We dropped off our bags and it was back into the car to go into Siena.
We made a beeline to the Duomo - to see as much of it as we could before the sun went down. Gorgeous! We then walked over to the Il Campo - the central meeting area for the Sienese. This is where the Palio is held twice every year (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palio_di_Siena). Dawn & I sat down (like the locals) while Dad scouted out the restaurants for dinner. We went with a restaurant with outdoor seating (looking over Il Campo) - it was either the Ristorante Asperanza or the Ristorante Toscani. Dawn chose pizza while Dad & I chose the Il Tagliere de Salumi tosani (plate of Tuscan cold meats & salami) and Il carre di agnello in crosta di erbe e pecorino fresco (to share -- roasted loin of lamb with aromatic herbs and fresh pecorino cheese). YUMMY! We capped off dinner with an espresso and a plate of local sweets (we were expecting panforte http://www.whatscookingamerica.net/Cake/panforte.htm but it wasn't). A little bit more walking then it was back to the hotel.
Day 5 - March 28th - Florence
We were on the road early - arriving in Florence a little after 9am, and drove to our hotel. I had redeemed Starwood points for a splurge - 1 night at the Grand Hotel (part of Starwood's Luxury Collection http://www.florence-grand-hotel.com/). We checked in and were given our rooms - 316 & 318. I have never stayed at a place like this (and doubt I will again)!! I also had never been walked to my room by an agent & shown the room - what decadence! The fabrics/decor/furniture were out of this world (well, at least this time). I can tell you that we would not have stayed here if not for the point redemption - the continental breakfast itself cost $52 EUR per person. This was a dream place!
We dropped off our things and headed out the door. First stop - Ponte Vecchio for window shopping (partly because of the prices and partly because stores were just opening up). We walked around & found ourselves in the Mercato Nuovo. There was lots of vendors around selling things, plus here is where we found "Il Procellino" - a statue of a pig/boar. There are 2 legends about him - 1 states that if you rub his snout it'll bring you good luck, and the other states that if you rub his snout you will ensure a return visit to Florence. Either way we rubbed his snout. The Duomo was next - gorgeous but it didn't affect me in the same way that the one in Orvieto did.
We ate an early lunch as Dawn & I had reservations for a 115pm entrance into the Uffizi Gallery (booked while in the States on http://www.florenceart.it/). We chose to eat at the Caffe Caste Vecchi (in the piazza near the Uffizi). I had ravioli burro e salvia (butter & sage ravioli), followed by piselli florentina (peas with prosciutto) and torta al cioccolato (chocolate cake). Dad had scalopine e funghi, canelloni e ricotta & spinaci, and tiramisu. Dawn had pizza margherita & torta al cicoccolato.
We got to the Uffizi early and walked right - there was no line what so ever. Dawn is more of a museum person/lover than I am, so we did the must do's together ("Birth of Venus", "Springtime", "The Pieta", "The Annuncion") and a fast tour, then I sat down while Dawn went back for a more leisurely look at the paintings. I didn't want to rush her enjoyment but I wish I had brought a book with me.
We meet back up with Dad at about 245pm and he said that he wanted to go to the hotel for a rest. Dawn & I had reservations for the Accademia for 430pm (booked through the same site as the tickets for the Uffizi) but decided to see if we could get in early. We found the museum with out a problem and were able to go in 1 hr earlier than scheduled. The "Slave" works (pieces where a man is coming out of a piece of marble/stone-http://www.wga.hu/index1.html) were a sight to see and of course "David" was indescribable. We just sat there staring at this amazing (and HUGE) statue.
Dawn wanted to buy her husband a Harley Davidson t-shirt so after leaving the Accademia we decided to try to find the store. We went into a nearby hotel and asked the clerk if he knew the address for the store. He said "sure" and wrote down a street name for us. We jump into a taxi, get to the street he said & there was no HD store in sight. We wasted both time and money and finally got back to our hotel. We relaxed in our room until it was time for dinner.
Dinner was at the Le Giubbe Rosse (http://www.giubberosse.it/storia.asp?Lan=EN) where I had ensalate capriese (tomato & mozarella salad), followed by pasta con salsiccia e spinaci (spinach & sausage). Dawn had pizza margherita & I don't remember what Dad had. We walked around Florence on our way back to the hotel & while we were eating our gelato we viewd a parade/demonstration by EMS/Ambulance/Emergency vehicles (with sirens & lights going). We assumed that it was for PEACE as most of the vehicles had flags with the work PACE (peace) waving from them.
We dropped off our things and headed out the door. First stop - Ponte Vecchio for window shopping (partly because of the prices and partly because stores were just opening up). We walked around & found ourselves in the Mercato Nuovo. There was lots of vendors around selling things, plus here is where we found "Il Procellino" - a statue of a pig/boar. There are 2 legends about him - 1 states that if you rub his snout it'll bring you good luck, and the other states that if you rub his snout you will ensure a return visit to Florence. Either way we rubbed his snout. The Duomo was next - gorgeous but it didn't affect me in the same way that the one in Orvieto did.
We ate an early lunch as Dawn & I had reservations for a 115pm entrance into the Uffizi Gallery (booked while in the States on http://www.florenceart.it/). We chose to eat at the Caffe Caste Vecchi (in the piazza near the Uffizi). I had ravioli burro e salvia (butter & sage ravioli), followed by piselli florentina (peas with prosciutto) and torta al cioccolato (chocolate cake). Dad had scalopine e funghi, canelloni e ricotta & spinaci, and tiramisu. Dawn had pizza margherita & torta al cicoccolato.
We got to the Uffizi early and walked right - there was no line what so ever. Dawn is more of a museum person/lover than I am, so we did the must do's together ("Birth of Venus", "Springtime", "The Pieta", "The Annuncion") and a fast tour, then I sat down while Dawn went back for a more leisurely look at the paintings. I didn't want to rush her enjoyment but I wish I had brought a book with me.
We meet back up with Dad at about 245pm and he said that he wanted to go to the hotel for a rest. Dawn & I had reservations for the Accademia for 430pm (booked through the same site as the tickets for the Uffizi) but decided to see if we could get in early. We found the museum with out a problem and were able to go in 1 hr earlier than scheduled. The "Slave" works (pieces where a man is coming out of a piece of marble/stone-http://www.wga.hu/index1.html) were a sight to see and of course "David" was indescribable. We just sat there staring at this amazing (and HUGE) statue.
Dawn wanted to buy her husband a Harley Davidson t-shirt so after leaving the Accademia we decided to try to find the store. We went into a nearby hotel and asked the clerk if he knew the address for the store. He said "sure" and wrote down a street name for us. We jump into a taxi, get to the street he said & there was no HD store in sight. We wasted both time and money and finally got back to our hotel. We relaxed in our room until it was time for dinner.
Dinner was at the Le Giubbe Rosse (http://www.giubberosse.it/storia.asp?Lan=EN) where I had ensalate capriese (tomato & mozarella salad), followed by pasta con salsiccia e spinaci (spinach & sausage). Dawn had pizza margherita & I don't remember what Dad had. We walked around Florence on our way back to the hotel & while we were eating our gelato we viewd a parade/demonstration by EMS/Ambulance/Emergency vehicles (with sirens & lights going). We assumed that it was for PEACE as most of the vehicles had flags with the work PACE (peace) waving from them.
Day 4 - March 27th - on the road - to Arezzo
We had breakfast at the hotel then it was off to pick up our rental car. We rented a car with Thrifty to be picked up at the Termini Train Station and to be returned to the Fuimicino airport. We were originally given an Alfa Romeo (not sure what model) but it had NO trunk space so we were upgraded to a Lancia Lybra station wagon. Once our bags were loaded we were on our way to tackle the rest of Italy.
We started off in Orvieto, arriving about 10-1030am. We went straight to the Duomo. The front of the Duomo is supposed to be gorgeous however it was covered with scaffolding as they were cleaning it, so we didn't get to get the whole experience. We walked around, looked at the ceramics and went into some local shops. We walked away from the main square and were rewarded with seeing places where the locals live (non touristy areas). I must say that this ended up being my favorite hill town. I would love to come back & stay here in order to experience everything Orvieto has to offer.
Next came Perugia - my father's friend had recommended stopping here to see the underground area (built by the Etruscan people) but there was nothing here but a bookstore (so pretty much a bust in my opinion). We ate lunch off the beaten track, at what appeared to be a local hangout - the Serenella e Alfredo restaurant. Dad had lasagna, Dawn had pizza & I had gnocchi. I finished with Tartufo nero and Dad had tiramisu.
Gubbio was next. This town is known for it's ceramics. It's a cute little town. We walked around for several hours then decided to start our drive towards Florence (we knew we would stop somewhere along the way and spend the night). Arezzo ended up being our stopping point. We found a 3 star hotel called the Hotel Europa (Via Spinello 43) and were able to get a twin at $78 EUR (room 56) and a single at $50 EUR (room 71). I personally would not stay there again - it was like stepping into the late 60's/early 70's with the decor. We could also hear everything that was happening next door, but the location and cost worked for us. We had dinner at La Vigna Trattoria - I had gnocchi & spinacia salata (spinach salad), Dawn had pizza, and Dad had the agnello (lamb) cooked on the grill - he let me taste it...Delicious!
We started off in Orvieto, arriving about 10-1030am. We went straight to the Duomo. The front of the Duomo is supposed to be gorgeous however it was covered with scaffolding as they were cleaning it, so we didn't get to get the whole experience. We walked around, looked at the ceramics and went into some local shops. We walked away from the main square and were rewarded with seeing places where the locals live (non touristy areas). I must say that this ended up being my favorite hill town. I would love to come back & stay here in order to experience everything Orvieto has to offer.
Next came Perugia - my father's friend had recommended stopping here to see the underground area (built by the Etruscan people) but there was nothing here but a bookstore (so pretty much a bust in my opinion). We ate lunch off the beaten track, at what appeared to be a local hangout - the Serenella e Alfredo restaurant. Dad had lasagna, Dawn had pizza & I had gnocchi. I finished with Tartufo nero and Dad had tiramisu.
Gubbio was next. This town is known for it's ceramics. It's a cute little town. We walked around for several hours then decided to start our drive towards Florence (we knew we would stop somewhere along the way and spend the night). Arezzo ended up being our stopping point. We found a 3 star hotel called the Hotel Europa (Via Spinello 43) and were able to get a twin at $78 EUR (room 56) and a single at $50 EUR (room 71). I personally would not stay there again - it was like stepping into the late 60's/early 70's with the decor. We could also hear everything that was happening next door, but the location and cost worked for us. We had dinner at La Vigna Trattoria - I had gnocchi & spinacia salata (spinach salad), Dawn had pizza, and Dad had the agnello (lamb) cooked on the grill - he let me taste it...Delicious!
Day 3 - March 26th - Rome
We had breakfast at the hotel again. This was our last full day in Rome. We walked over to the Forum but even though opening time was supposed to be 9am things didn't open up until the afternoon (due to work in the area). We headed over to the Vittorio Emmanuel building where we watched (with tons of other people) a military wreath laying ceremony. There were members of several different armed forces, a military band and dignitaries in attendance (we were not able to find out anything in the news or papers to explain what happened).
From there we went back to the Spanish Steps - this time to tackle climbing them (Dad went all the way, Dawn & I stopped half way). We sat on the steps (like the locals), soaked in the atmosphere & rested our tired feet. Next was the Trevi Fountain - beautiful yet crowded. We had lunch down the street at Quirino's Restaurant (no web site but here's a review with the address and phone number http://www.frommers.com/destinations/rome/D33602.html). Lunch for me consisted of Ravioli con spinaci e ricotta (spinich & ricotta ravioli), followed by Ossobuco (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ossobuco). We then visited the Bocca della Verita (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bocca_della_Verit%C3%A0) where Dad tested his luck by putting his hand in the mouth :-)
Dinner that night was at the Piro Trattoria (Via Daniele Manin 55/57). Pizza Margherita for Dawn, Quatro Formaggio Pizza for me and lasagne for Dad. It was then back to the hotel to pack up our belongings in preperation for our departure from Rome.
From there we went back to the Spanish Steps - this time to tackle climbing them (Dad went all the way, Dawn & I stopped half way). We sat on the steps (like the locals), soaked in the atmosphere & rested our tired feet. Next was the Trevi Fountain - beautiful yet crowded. We had lunch down the street at Quirino's Restaurant (no web site but here's a review with the address and phone number http://www.frommers.com/destinations/rome/D33602.html). Lunch for me consisted of Ravioli con spinaci e ricotta (spinich & ricotta ravioli), followed by Ossobuco (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ossobuco). We then visited the Bocca della Verita (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bocca_della_Verit%C3%A0) where Dad tested his luck by putting his hand in the mouth :-)
Dinner that night was at the Piro Trattoria (Via Daniele Manin 55/57). Pizza Margherita for Dawn, Quatro Formaggio Pizza for me and lasagne for Dad. It was then back to the hotel to pack up our belongings in preperation for our departure from Rome.
Day 2 - March 25th - Rome
We ate breakfast at the roof top terrace then it was off to the Vatican. When we arrived the line to get in was around the corner, but luckily it moved quickly. Cost to get in was $10 EUR per person - be aware that they only accept cash (no credit cards or travelers checks) for entrance. Credit cards are accepted for souveniers but no travelers checks at all.
WOW! What an amazing place!! Definately try to make it here if you can.
***WORD OF CAUTION*** There was a woman holding a baby (or looked like she was) trying to get donations. This "baby" was somehow strapped to her where it looks like she's holding the kid but in fact her left arm/hand was free. She was persistent is standing in front of me & when I finally got away from her I noticed that she had opened the top zipper of my travel bag - seems like she reached in and was trying to get something but as only a map and my camera were there she wasn't sucessful.
That afternoon we dedicated time at St Peter's and the Sistine Chapel. Another WOW place. Words can not do the Sistine Chapel justice. Pictures were not allowed there and they also would not let you sit on the steps (to look up).
We headed over to the Piazza Navona next, sat at one of the outside tables at the Bar Navona and enjoyed a gelato (Dawn & I), coffee and some people watching. Took pictures of the Four Rivers fountain before heading over to the Pantheon and the Campo de Fiori. We spent some time taking in the Spanish Steps then chose a restaurant off the Piazza Spagna for dinner (La Giggi Trattoria Romana http://www.trattoriadagiggi.com/ENG_Home.html). Total cost for us was $86 EUR. I don't remember what Dad & Dawn had but I had proscuitto e melone as my first plate, followed by Tagliatelle e carciofi (noodles & artichokes) then Asparagi (asparagus). We shared wine from the Montepulciano region and finished up with an espresso.
WOW! What an amazing place!! Definately try to make it here if you can.
***WORD OF CAUTION*** There was a woman holding a baby (or looked like she was) trying to get donations. This "baby" was somehow strapped to her where it looks like she's holding the kid but in fact her left arm/hand was free. She was persistent is standing in front of me & when I finally got away from her I noticed that she had opened the top zipper of my travel bag - seems like she reached in and was trying to get something but as only a map and my camera were there she wasn't sucessful.
That afternoon we dedicated time at St Peter's and the Sistine Chapel. Another WOW place. Words can not do the Sistine Chapel justice. Pictures were not allowed there and they also would not let you sit on the steps (to look up).
We headed over to the Piazza Navona next, sat at one of the outside tables at the Bar Navona and enjoyed a gelato (Dawn & I), coffee and some people watching. Took pictures of the Four Rivers fountain before heading over to the Pantheon and the Campo de Fiori. We spent some time taking in the Spanish Steps then chose a restaurant off the Piazza Spagna for dinner (La Giggi Trattoria Romana http://www.trattoriadagiggi.com/ENG_Home.html). Total cost for us was $86 EUR. I don't remember what Dad & Dawn had but I had proscuitto e melone as my first plate, followed by Tagliatelle e carciofi (noodles & artichokes) then Asparagi (asparagus). We shared wine from the Montepulciano region and finished up with an espresso.
Day 1 - March 24th - arriving in Rome
Arrival into Fuimicino (Rome) at 8am on Delta Airlines from Washington National Airport, through JFK.
My father met us at the airport - he lives in Argentina and arrived a few days before we did. We took the train directly into the Termini Station in Rome ($8.80 EUR per person, 1 way). We went straight to our hotel (Golden Tulip Mecenate Palace http://www.mecenatepalace.com/). Only 1 of our 2 rooms were ready, but that was fine with us as we just wanted to freshen up and drop our bags off. Dawn & I were given room 107 (sleeps 3 with window overlooking courtyard) and Dad was assigned room 104 (across the hall, double bed with window overlooking the street).
The hotel was wonderful - cute, great service and a nice buffet breakfast each morning on the roof top terrace. I would definately stay here again.
Ok - we were off! We started at the Colosseum looking at the Arch de Constantine before walking over to the Colosseum itself. We were approached by an agent from Discover Rome Tours (http://www.discoverrometours.com/) saying that an english tour was just about to start and that for $15 EUR (this would include entrance into the Colosseum and Palatine Hill) we could join it, bypass the entrance line and walk right in. Sounded good to us. Our tour guide was Paolo, who was very knowledgeable, spoke english well and had a good sense of humor. The tour lasted several hours and went everywhere. At the end of the tour we were given the option of either going over to Palatine Hill right then (to be walked in) or to meet near the Arch at 230pm to go in then. We were hungry so we opted to go get something to eat & to meet back at 230pm at the entrance to Palatine Hill.
We found a restaurant with outdoor seating near the Colosseum as we didn't want to go too far. We chose the Royal Meat House where Dad had lasagna while Dawn & I had pizza margherita (not really what I had in mind for my 1st meal in Italy but by that point it tasted good).
We returned to the assigned meeting spot & were escorted into Palatine Hill. Tons of walking here & I took tons of pictures. Luckily we had great weather - nice & sunny. After a few hours exploring we were beat! We headed back to the hotel and all took naps until dinner. We had a home cooked meal at a friend of my father's house and then back to the hotel for the night.
My father met us at the airport - he lives in Argentina and arrived a few days before we did. We took the train directly into the Termini Station in Rome ($8.80 EUR per person, 1 way). We went straight to our hotel (Golden Tulip Mecenate Palace http://www.mecenatepalace.com/). Only 1 of our 2 rooms were ready, but that was fine with us as we just wanted to freshen up and drop our bags off. Dawn & I were given room 107 (sleeps 3 with window overlooking courtyard) and Dad was assigned room 104 (across the hall, double bed with window overlooking the street).
The hotel was wonderful - cute, great service and a nice buffet breakfast each morning on the roof top terrace. I would definately stay here again.
Ok - we were off! We started at the Colosseum looking at the Arch de Constantine before walking over to the Colosseum itself. We were approached by an agent from Discover Rome Tours (http://www.discoverrometours.com/) saying that an english tour was just about to start and that for $15 EUR (this would include entrance into the Colosseum and Palatine Hill) we could join it, bypass the entrance line and walk right in. Sounded good to us. Our tour guide was Paolo, who was very knowledgeable, spoke english well and had a good sense of humor. The tour lasted several hours and went everywhere. At the end of the tour we were given the option of either going over to Palatine Hill right then (to be walked in) or to meet near the Arch at 230pm to go in then. We were hungry so we opted to go get something to eat & to meet back at 230pm at the entrance to Palatine Hill.
We found a restaurant with outdoor seating near the Colosseum as we didn't want to go too far. We chose the Royal Meat House where Dad had lasagna while Dawn & I had pizza margherita (not really what I had in mind for my 1st meal in Italy but by that point it tasted good).
We returned to the assigned meeting spot & were escorted into Palatine Hill. Tons of walking here & I took tons of pictures. Luckily we had great weather - nice & sunny. After a few hours exploring we were beat! We headed back to the hotel and all took naps until dinner. We had a home cooked meal at a friend of my father's house and then back to the hotel for the night.
Italy - March 24-April 3 2003
Three of us spent a marvelous 11 days in Italy - 1 of us (my friend Dawn) was a 1st timer, this was my 2nd time there (farthest south before was Bologna so everywhere we went was new for me) and my father who had actually lived in Italy for a time. Here are my thoughts/notes about the trip - some may say we did too much or didn't get out of each place as much as we could have - while that's possible, we wanted to do as much as possible and we have no complaints/regrets (except for not spending more time in Siena).
This trip was my last big trip before having a digital camera. I used a Kodak APS camera and I will try to scan some pictures in to share (they're in my scrapbook).
Please note that all prices/policies are what they were in 2003 and may have changed by the time you read this.
This trip was my last big trip before having a digital camera. I used a Kodak APS camera and I will try to scan some pictures in to share (they're in my scrapbook).
Please note that all prices/policies are what they were in 2003 and may have changed by the time you read this.
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